Dogs: Behavioural Problems
There are reviews of several good books on dog training and behaviour in Books on Animals.
The most common dog behavioural problems are listed here in alphabetical
order. Do check with a vet to rule out medical causes, especially if the onset
of a problem is sudden. You will need professional help from someone who can
see you and your dog for some of the more serious problems.
Aggression
(See also Biting, Fighting, Jealousy, Phobias, Playbiting, Possessiveness and Vet Phobias)
The focus here is on aggression against humans. See Fighting for dog-dog
aggression.
Owners of dogs that growl and snarl are often worried about having an aggressive
dog. Growling and snarling is a way that dogs try to create distance, and
want the human or dog they are growling at to go away, so the dog feels threatened
or is frightened. This is a useful signal, so don't punish a dog for growling,
or you just confirm his fears, and he may even learn to bite without growling!
Growling says a dog doesn't want to pick a fight, but may bite if you push
it. Just stay standing, to show the growling won't work to make you back away,
and make yourself less of a threat, by looking away, for example. Towering
over a growling dog, and trying to touch his head is likely to trigger biting,
whereas squatting and talking to him gently may calm him.
Barking dogs are often seen as aggressive when they are just barking out
of excitement, because they want to play, or as an alarm call. Dogs may also
bark and pull their owner's sleeve if they are worried the owner is doing
something dangerous, like using a vacuum cleaner, which some dogs see as a
very strange, noisy object. This isn't attacking, but protecting the owner
- see Phobias. Dogs may also never have learnt how to play gently with humans
- see Playbiting.
Dogs that show clear aggression may show this for a number of reasons. Firstly,
check that there is no medical problem, such as a brain tumour, or thyroid
problem, especially if the aggression is sudden and unexpected. A vet may
also find a hidden injury which could be causing pain. Pain will make dogs
tetchy, and dogs will often growl if you touch a sore spot.
The most common form of aggression that worries owners is perhaps that shown
by a young dog which tries growling and snapping to get its own way. Some
young dogs will do this, especially if they find it works, eg if the owner
then leaves them on the couch, or doesn't try to take away an object that
they have stolen. Prevention is better than cure - make sure that your dog
can't steal forbidden objects, by keeping them out of his reach or locked
away, and prevent access to the couch by putting something on it when you
aren't in the room. Try to avoid confrontations, especially those where you
may lose! You can get the dog off the couch using a distraction, like pretending
to go out, whereas if you try pulling him off the couch by his collar, he
may bite. You will need professional help if your dog regularly growls at
you to get his own way, from someone who can see how your and the dog interact.
Young dogs are more likely to be growly and snappy if they are alternatively
pampered and shouted at, so try to be consistent, so the rules are clear,
and even-tempered, to exert a calming influence on the dog. See also Possessiveness
for help with dogs trying to retain objects, and Biting.
Aggression is often mixed with fear. Dogs may be frightened, fearing that
someone plans to hurt them, and make a show of aggression as a warning, to
defend themselves. How you tackle this depends a lot on why the dog is frightened,
and how much time you have. Generally, it's better to tackle the fear than
force the dog to do what he is frightened of (see Phobias). You may need to
act fast, for the dog's own sake, eg to muzzle a dog for veterinary treatment.
In this case, move swiftly and decisively, while using gentle, soothing words
(see Vet Phobias).
Appetite Loss
Do check with your vet in case this is due to illness. It's very common,
however, for healthy young dogs to go through phases when they don't eat well,
and entire lovesick males often go off their food. It usually does the dog
no harm, and obesity is a greater health risk than a dog being a bit underweight.
Dogs also vary in terms of how much food they need, and yours may not conform
to the advice packs that give on how much a dog his weight should eat, so
go by his condition and appearance, eg is he tired? Does he appear thin? Ask
a vet if you aren't sure.
The timing of meals affects appetite, eg feeding after rather than before
a walk tends to mean dogs are hungrier. You can try leaving food down all
day, noting when your dog eats, and then feeding at the times when his biorhythms
tell him to eat. Dogs that don't want to eat at mealtimes may eat complete
dried food presented to them as titbits when they are out on walks - good
for reinforcing recall! Other tricks include boiling up a few leftover bones
from your meals and pouring the flavoured water onto your dog's meal, and
mashing it in, and using a little canned food if you normally use dry. Don't
give big meals if your dog won't eat them, so as to avoid waste. You can always
give another small meal straight after if the first one is eaten.
Do avoid fussing the dog - many dogs like to eat alone or they feel stressed.
Some people become convinced the dog won't eat dog food and end up feeding
him human food. This can cause problems, since not all human food is good
for dogs. Try making the dog food more appetising. Cook him special meals
if you want to and have time, but it's not really necessary, and you need
to make sure you research canine nutrition first. If there's nothing wrong
with the dog, it's usually best just to relax. These phases usually only last
a short while in healthy dogs.
Attention Seeking
Do check that the dog doesn't have a 'valid reason' for seeking your attention,
like an upset tummy, which means he wants to poo outside! Your dog may also
have a 'right' to be bored and want some fun, for example if he has been good
and quiet for several hours while you have been ignoring him. You need to
strike a balance between spoiling the dog, and making him brattish, and having
a fretful, bored dog with too little to do.
You have more chance of controlling attention seeking if you only reward
a dog for doing something you want him to, rather than just for coming up
and nuzzling you. It's better not to pay immediate attention to a dog that
is seeking it out of boredom - ask him to be quiet, and then pay attention
to him for being good - but it's even better to ensure that the dog doesn't
get bored in the first place. Old dogs like to snooze a lot, but young dogs
need to run around off the lead, a lot, and benefit from a lot of interaction
with their owners.
Structuring your dog's day is a good way to avoid attention-seeking. Dogs
that seek attention in annoying ways are often predictable. They may have
a manic period in the evening when you are tired. Try working out when the
dog does this, an initiating an activity beforehand. Dogs tend to sleep after
exercise, and if he hasn't been out much, give him something energetic to
do. This doesn't have to be a long walk, if you are too tired, you can stand
still and make him run! Try a ball game in the garden, or even indoors. Make
him 'earn' the throws by sitting first, and even sitting and staying, only
fetching on command, so he doesn't get too demanding. You can also play 'hunt
the titbit' as a fun game indoors. Get him to stay outside the room while
you hide the titbits, which he has to sniff out. Chews can also help keep
dogs occupied when you are busy or tired.
Babies
See Children
Barking
Some breeds hardly ever bark, while others bark a lot. Barking is a common
alarm call, but dogs also bark because they are happy, want to go out, want
attention, or just 'because'. Barking isn't usually a sign of aggression,
and a growling dog is more likely to bite than a barking dog.
The main problem with barking is often that it annoys the neighbours, so
don't leave your dog unattended outside, and shut the windows if he barks
a lot. Give your dog a good run before you go to work, so he's more likely
to sleep. If you can't take him out, just play ball in the garden with him,
to make him run around a lot. Dogs also bark less if they are left in rooms
where they can't see passers-by, or other stimuli that might trigger barking,
and if they have chews and other toys to occupy them.
Dogs can frighten visitors by their barking. Try taking the dog outside on
a lead and introducing him to the visitor with no jumping up, before going
back in, with the visitor. You can also control this by working hard on 'sit'
and 'stay' commands so the dog will obey these even if there is an exciting
visitor that he wants to jump on. If all else fails, and the visitor is very
nervous and the dog wild, just shut the dog out of the room with a chew toy,
then work on his manners later, with a dog-friendly visitor.
Barking at the phone is a common problem, especially in multi-dog households.
You can try getting someone to phone you several times at a pre-arranged time,
and not pick up the phone. Say 'Good dogs' to the dogs for telling you the
phone has rung, then tell them to lie down. When they have done so and are
quiet, reward them.
Dogs are more likely to bark at passers-by, joggers, bicycles, and other
stimuli if they aren't used to them. Try taking your dog to somewhere where
there are so many of these stimuli he can't possibly bark at them all, and
reward him for being quiet. Informal sports events, and squares in towns with
a bench where you can sit with your dog are good places for teaching him to
sit quietly.
Whispering is often an effective way to quieten a dog. He has to shut up
to hear you. This is very useful for late night walks when you don't want
to wake your neighbours. Whisper 'shh' and stop preparations for the walk
if the dog barks. If he gives an excited bark as you go out of the door, stop
in your tracks with a 'shh', and go back indoors if he barks again. He should
soon realise that he only gets to go out if he is quiet.
Begging
Not everyone worries about begging, but you need to exercise some control
over this, or the dog may try to take food off your plate before you can eat
it yourself. Don't feed your dog titbits while you are eating, because it
tends to make him more inclined to beg in a pushy way. Feed him a titbit from
your food at the end of your meal if you don't mind wistful eyes waiting until
you finish. If you can't stand any form of begging, just don't feed him while,
or just after you eat, or you are training him to beg. You can save any of
your leftovers until his mealtime, and put them in his bowl. Do remember that
not all human food is good for dogs - see Dogs and Diet.
Bitches In Season
See also Lovesick Dogs
Bitches in season go through mood changes, and may be grumpy with other dogs
for part of their season. They will often try to escape to find a mate when
they are at their most fertile. This is not disobedience, it's what they are
programmed to do! They also need to wee more, and may dribble and mark, as
well as bleed during part of their season. Never let a bitch in season off
the leash in a public area (some people do). It's kinder to the local entire
males to take bitches in season for walks to places where there aren't many
dogs. It's safer to spay a bitch if you aren't sure you can prevent her from
having unwanted pregnancies. There are also health benefits to spaying, such
as less vulnerability to pyometra and mammary cancer, which usually outweigh
the disadvantages, such as the risks from the operation itself, and vulnerability
to incontinence (easier to cure than mammary cancer).
Biting
(See also Aggression, Possessiveness and Playbiting.)
Dogs should always be discouraged from using their teeth on humans, including
mouthing and nipping. A dog that bites strangers may have to be put down,
and dogs can and do hurt people by biting them.
Prevention is much better than cure - you may not get a chance to cure a
dog if the police are involved. See Playbiting for advice on bite inhibition.
Socialize your dog with people, and make sure he has no special phobias, eg
with regard to delivery people. You can have regular delivery people throw
titbits at him from a safe distance, so he makes friends with them. Don't
let pups run free and bark at strangers, or they may get kicked and start
biting to defend themselves. Make sure your dog is always supervised when
he is outside, or that the garden is secure and locked, so no stranger can
enter. Keep him secure, eg on the lead when strangers are about, if there
is any risk of his biting.
Dogs may try to bite their owners to retain a stolen object. Keep forbidden
objects out of his reach. If you need to take something from him, use soothing
words, and try to tempt him away with something more exciting (eg a handful
of stinky titbits, or skin from a roast chicken. If your dog has the whole
of the chicken, talk softly to him, wear thick gloves (eg sheepskin) and take
it quickly, before he has a chance to react. Think of your safety first, and
don't force the issue if the object is not important. See Possessiveness on
how to prevent confrontations over stolen objects.
An adult dog that growls and bites to prevent an owner from sitting on a
couch or going past in a passage represents a serious threat, and you will
need professional help if your dog does this (see Useful Contacts).
It's a good idea always to get dogs to sit before you throw a ball for them,
as dogs will often jump to get at the ball, and nip, and can even break the
skin. This is especially important for children, since their skin damages
easily.
Dogs may also bite out of fear, or because they are in pain. They are less
frightened if you squat at their level and talk to them gently. Any dog that
has bitten a human should be muzzled when being seen by a vet - see Vet Phobias
for advice on muzzling.
Chasing Cars, Bikes, Joggers,
Cats etc.
This behaviour is common among young dogs of herding breeds, and is difficult
to extinguish. Some books recommend throwing buckets of water from moving
cars, or other forms of punishment, but the chase instinct is so strong in
many dogs that this may not be effective, and may make the problem worse.
Punishment may convince the dog that cars are dangerous and out to get him,
so should be chased, and will tend to make him tense when they approach, whereas
you want him to be calm. Dogs that chase cars often fear them, cringing when
they go past. Confident, calm dogs just walk along the pavement without flinching,
and have worked out that cars don't attack them if they are beside their owner.
Regular walks near traffic with sits by the kerb are an essential part of
a pup's education, and help to prevent chasing.
Owners of dogs that are chasers need to anticipate trouble. Try to spot temptation
before your dog does, and call him if he is off the lead, before he goes into
a mad dash. Keep him on the lead if temptation is likely to be near. Try exposing
him to as many triggers as possible when he is on the lead, and reward him
for being still and paying attention to you. You can sit regularly with your
dog near a cat that refuses to run away, for example, until he learns to focus
on you and be calm in the presence of cats, at least ones sitting still! Or
you can sit regularly for a few minutes by a busy road with your dog, until
he gets used to traffic.
Some chasing is location or vehicle specific. Dogs may behave well by busy
roads, but chase bicycles crossing playing fields, for example. Here, you
could enlist help from friendly cyclists. Ask them to cycle past first at
a distance, then when your dog can handle that and still focus on you, your
ally can gradually get closer. Diesel cars and motor cycles often make dogs
lunge towards traffic, as do cars on wet roads at night. Again, try to get
your dog used to these stimuli. These sounds may trigger lunging because dogs
find them overwhelming and horrible, not just because the dogs want to chase,
but you can desensitise your dog with a little regular effort.
Chewing
See Destructiveness
Children
It's always a good idea to socialise your pup with children, even if you
don't have any yourself, so that he knows how to behave with them when he
grows up. Children can be quite frightening and confusing for dogs, because
they tend to move in erratic ways, make high-pitched noises, and even poke
dogs in sensitive places, or pull their ears and tails. Children often get
carried away when they are telling dogs what to do, and give several commands
at once, or jumble up commands. Take your pup to a play area, so he can watch
children, and make sure any children who approach him do so with quiet voices,
and only give him long, calming strokes. Explain what dogs like, like nice,
calm people, and what they don't like, like people who rush up to them screaming.
An adult dog that is child-phobic, and runs away or freezes when children
approach needs the same sort of gentle treatment, to socialise him, but just
let him watch children at first, don't let children approach until he has
relaxed. Instead, they can carefully throw titbits in front of the dog, and
say 'good dog'. Try letting him investigate older children first, and ask
the child to talk quietly and make slow movements, or just sit and pretend
to read, while appearing to ignore the dog. If your dog likes playing ball,
ask the child to ignore the dog, and just throw a ball.
Dogs should never be left unsupervised with young children, especially babies.
You can get your dog used to a new baby by taking him to meet babies beforehand,
and by associating babies with pleasant experiences. But dogs left alone with
babies may lick them, investigate their nappies, or even panic when a baby
cries, all of which may be misconstrued.
Older children are useful allies in training programmes, and you can find
out from fellow parents with dogs which local training classes are child-friendly.
Smaller dogs are much easier for children to handle in a class, but children
can still be taught how to give clear commands to larger dogs, and how to
get them to behave well.
Coprophagia
See Poo Eating
Destructiveness
(See also Separation Anxiety.)
Pups and young dogs tend to be quite destructive, while they are at the chewing
stage, and until they learn what they can and can't chew. Make sure your pup
doesn't have access to forbidden objects, and give him plenty of permissible
objects to chew. Bitter apple and other preparations can be used to protect
furniture. Tabasco sometimes works, but not always.
Older dogs may be destructive through boredom and/or separation anxiety.
Dogs need exercise before they are left for a few hours. This helps them poo,
and means they are more likely to sleep after you leave, rather than chew
up the house. Chew toys and hollow Kongs smeared with something tasty inside
can give them something to do when they wake up. Take time to play games with
your dog when you are at home. He has company when he is with you watching
TV, but might find this a little boring all evening! A ten-minute game of
hide-and seek, or 'hunt the titbit' can settle him before your favourite TV
programme.
Escaping
See Wandering Off
Fireworks
See Phobias
Fighting
Fighting occurs at different levels of seriousness, from playfights to serious
fights which can result in injury and even death. Some people argue that playfights
between pups should not be allowed, since it's a way that dogs learn to fight,
while others see playfights as a useful way for pups to learn how to bite
gently and not hurt each other. A lot depends on age, the breed, and on your
ability to recognise when fights are getting serious. Little pups don't usually
do each other much damage, and can learn how to regulate their bites by the
way that their siblings react. If they bite too hard, the sibling yelps and
doesn't want to play any more, which is usually enough to teach the biter
that he or she has gone too far. Where you need to be more careful is when
puppies of different sizes get together, and there is a danger of a pup getting
bullied, or learning to be a bully. This can happen with unrelated pups, and
pups of different sizes in cross-breed litters, especially big litters. Always
stop playfights if one pup is unhappy about what is happening, and is trying
to run away, rather than coming back for more, or if you just want some peace
and quiet.
Fights can get more serious as dogs get older. Some breeds are better able
to tussle playfully as adults without it getting out of hand, and they tend
to be dogs bred to live in packs, such as many hound breeds. Playfights between
siblings, or dogs that are friends typically include chase games and playbows,
and the pups return again and again to each other, until they are exhausted.
Other breeds are more likely to lose their tempers when they fight, and the
fighting and growls get more frenetic, while playbows disappear. It's best
to stop fights as soon as they start to be serious, even if it's fights between
little pups.
Most fights between socialised adult dogs are brief, and result in no damage
to either dog. Typically, they involve a younger dog being briefly scolded
for taking liberties with an older dog, or two entire males reaching adulthood.
Owners of entire males need to be especially careful on walks, since previously
sociable male dogs may suddenly decide to 'take out' other entire males. Fights
can also occur when dogs don't understand each other's body language, which
often happens when dogs of different breeds meet. The erect tail of a spitz
may attract aggression (who does he think he is?). Bull terriers and rottweilers
send fewer signals to other dogs, who may not realise when it is wiser to
back off. If you have a dog who sometimes picks fights, or seems to get involved
in a lot of fights, keep him on the lead unless you have a clear view ahead,
and know that any dog approaching is one he doesn't fight. Anticipate trouble,
and try to spot approaching rivals before he does, so you can call him and
avoid trouble.
Prevention is better than cure. People are often hurt trying to separate
fighting dogs, so it's best not to expose yourself to this danger, and to
use distractions if possible, rather than wading in and risking a bite. Bellowing
your dog's name with a 'NO', turning on a vacuum cleaner, or similar distractions
may be effective. Some breeds are not 'dog aggressive' in the sense that they
pick fights or are easily pushed into aggression, but can do a lot of damage
once they do start fighting, and this is true of Staffordshire and other bull
terriers. You may need a special stick to prize open the jaw of a bull terrier
that doesn't want to let go, and it's wise to teach these dogs to obey 'drop'
from when they are puppies.
Walking your dog in the same place at the same time every day helps you avoid
fights, since you can get to know which dogs your dog likes, and which he
doesn't. Learn to read your dog's body language when there are new dogs around,
so you can keep at a comfortable distance if he seems wary. Even if your dog
seems friendly, do check with other owners before letting your dog approach
their dog. Some dogs just don't like being approached when they are on the
lead, and may bite your treasure on the nose. Fights are also more likely
if dogs don't have much space, for example if they are hemmed in on a narrow
pathway. If the initial meeting looks promising, the best place for your dog
to get to know a new dog is off the lead in an open space, like the middle
of a field.
Unsocialised dogs will tend to fight out of fear. It's worth trying to socialise
adult dogs, even if you may never trust them off the lead with other dogs.
It means that they are less likely to bite any young dog that approaches them,
or to lunge at dogs that pass by. You'll need to enlist the help of a trainer,
or at least someone with a lot of experience of dogs, who can help by exposing
your dog to calm adult dogs who don't react to barking and posturing. You
can also take an unsocialised dog to watch outdoor training classes at a safe
distance, so long as all the owners taking part in the class know not to let
their dogs approach you. Set up markers so your dog has his 'comfort distance'
respected.
Fighting is more of a problem if it happens in your own home, rather than
on walks. There are people who think dogs should be allowed to 'fight it out'
because otherwise you are interfering in their ranking system. Not a good
idea when you want to watch TV quietly after a hard day! You can tell both
dogs involved to cut it out, without showing favor. In any case, dogs showing
aggression towards other canine household members may be trying to upset the
established order. Dominant dogs will usually just give a quick reprimand,
so if you back up the aggressor, you may be contributing to prolonged periods
of aggression. Anything other than quick canine reprimands should be stamped
on before it gets out of hand. Rehoming may be necessary as a last resort.
It may be heartbreaking, but it's better than coming home and finding a dead
dog.
Again, prevention is better than cure. The way you manage your household
is important, if you want a peaceful home. Give each dog space to eat at meal
times (which means not leaving food out). Bones can become a source of fights,
so let each dog have a chew or a bone in a separate room if you want them
to chew and they tend to squabble. Obedience training helps a lot, since you
can more easily attract your dogs' attention before fights start, and get
them to obey a 'lie down', 'stay' or 'come' commands.
There are some people you wouldn't want to share a house with, and the same
goes for dogs! How can you pick new dogs that are likely to fit into your
household? The general rule is that it's safer not to keep two bitches of
the same breed, and that the best combination is dog-bitch. However, some
breeds co-exist more happily than others, especially breeds designed to work
together as packs, and you may find bitches from these breeds happily co-exist
under the same roof. Others, especially dogs designed to work with people,
like German shepherds, may quickly become jealous if you pay attention to
another dog, and this can lead to fights. It's also best to choose a pup that
is likely to be happy as the underdog when he or she hits puberty, rather
than a pushy dog likely to want to oust the older dog from its position. And
mix different sized dogs with care, since some small dogs are very pushy,
and may not willingly defer to bigger dogs, but may be unable to get other
dogs to defer to them because of their small size. Finally, it's safer to
stick to the more dog-sociable breeds, if you want to have more than one dog.
Fur pulling
It's not always known why some dogs pull out their fur. It may be a behavioural
problem, or medical, or a mix of the two, when a dog gets into the habit from
an initial medical problem. Check with your vet to eliminate anal gland trouble,
mange, and other possible causes of hair pulling and loss. Watch out for fleas,
which some dogs are very sensitive to, vacuum a lot, and wash bedding frequently
using 'kind' products that aren't heavily perfumed. Try a diet suitable for
dogs with allergies. Dogs also benefit from having mental stimulation, even
when there's a medical reason for an itch. Give chew toys, play games, and
give your dog plenty of exercise. You can also try dog sitting exchanges,
ie leave your dog with someone else on a regular basis while you are busy,
and then look after their dog in exchange, so your dog has more stimulation
and distractions, and is less likely to pull fur out of boredom.
Incontinence
See Toilet Training.
See also Dogs and Health article summaries
Jealousy
Dogs often appear possessive of their owners, which can be annoying when
a dog latches onto one person in a household, growling at others. It's quite
common for small, fluffy dogs, like Pomeranians, to decide they belong to
the woman of the household. A cure for this is for all rewards to come from
the man - including meals as well as titbits. Walks can be a problem, since
not all men want to be seen out with small, fluffy dogs! But walking with
the man of the house can make a big difference in bonding, since the man not
only becomes a source of pleasure, he also becomes the person who protects
the dog in the big wide world outside. Perhaps men who feel embarrassed about
walking fluffy dogs could call them 'Fang', 'Bruiser', or some other suitably
butch (if incongruous) name.
Dogs may also attack other dogs they see with their owner, or even with another
friendly human they have come to regard as part of their pack, especially
if this friend has a new dog. It's a good idea to introduce a new dog with
someone else handling him, other than the person the dog sees as part of his
pack, and to do this outside, with both dogs on the lead at first. Then give
them plenty of space to get to know each other, before taking them indoors.
Keep hellos to the dogs low-key and even-handed. If you have a new dog and
there is squabbling when you get home, ignore all the dogs at first, and then
get them to lie down, and reward them all for being good.
Jumping Up
Jumping up can be a problem if your dog does this to passers-by, especially
children, and people who are dog-phobic. You can control this by working hard
on the 'sit' command, and by only rewarding your dog with cuddles or whatever
when he has all four paws on the ground. This is especially important for
pups, since people often think pups are cute, and cuddle them whatever they
do, but manners learnt by pups tend to stay with them as adults. Get the person
the dog is greeting to take a step back and turn away from the dog, ignoring
him until he is calm and has all four paws on the ground. Repeat if the dog
jumps up again. Don't punish the dog for jumping up on others, since he may
become frightened of meeting people. Good recall is also important to retrieve
your dog if he is off the leash and has a passer-by pinned to a wall! Keep
him on the lead if he's likely to jump up, and practise meeting people with
him sitting nicely.
Large Dogs
You need to work harder with large dogs, especially over jumping up, mounting,
and stealing food. Puppies of giant breeds may frighten other dogs, so socialisation
is also important. It helps to walk in the same place every day, so your pup
can make friends who get used to his size.
Lovesick Dogs
Entire males that have had a whiff of a bitch in season may go off their
food, howl, whimper, become deaf to commands, and oblivious to anything but
the smell of bitches. This does not affect all entire males, and younger dogs
may be unaffected if you have more than one entire male. You can often calm
a lovesick dog by taking him out at a time and to places when there is no
smell of a bitch. For some reason, a short walk with no bitch smells seems
to turn an 'off' switch in the dog's head and stop him whimpering. It's very
easy to tell when a dog is lovesick, and he should never be let off the lead
when he is in this state, or allowed out unattended in the garden. Try to
explain to owners of entire bitches what the problem is, especially if they
are daft enough to allow their bitches out off the leash where you go walking.
See if you can coordinate walks so that your dog does not follow in the bitch's
tracks - though entire males are extremely sensitive to the whiff of a bitch,
and can smell a bitch in season from half a field away.
Mounting
Dogs mount for a number of reasons, not just because they want to mate. It
is most common in entire males between one and two-years-old, but neutered
males and bitches also mount. It may be a sign of wanting to dominate another
dog, but not always, and may just be general excitement.
If your dog is a mounter, be considerate, and don't let him off the lead with
people or dogs he could frighten, especially smaller dogs. Some dogs can handle
mounters, and just issue a brief reprimand. Explain your problem, and check
with the owner. You can try sound distractions and work on recall, though
it's best to call your dog before he starts to mount. You can watch your dog's
body language when he meets a dog he mounts, and spot the sign that he is
likely to, so learn to anticipate and prevent problems. Owners of target dogs
can use a water pistol to defend their dogs.
Dogs mount humans too, and you can treat this as an over-enthusiastic jumping
up issue. Dogs that mount also tend to be dogs that jump up, so deal with
the jumping up, and the mounting takes care of itself.
Overattachment
See Separation Anxiety.
Phobias
(See also Vet Phobias)
Dogs can develop phobias about all kinds of events, people, other animals,
objects and sounds. Generally, try to get the dog to associate what he is
afraid of with something nice. Don't force the issue unless you really have
to, or you may panic the dog and undo progress. If your dog is afraid of an
object, for example, just leave the object on the floor next to his favourite
titbit and move away, pretending to ignore the dog. If he doesn't approach
the object, try again, with the titbit further away, and if he eats the titbit,
try it with the object nearer the titbit.
Sound phobias are difficult to deal with, and can arise suddenly when dogs
are adult. If your dog is a little afraid of gunshot, try walking him with
a calm, older dog, and he should take his cue from his companion. It's best
to try not to be out in thunderstorms, or when fireworks are being let off,
as very loud bangs can spook many dogs. Dogs often bark, or tremble and hide,
when they hear loud bangs and thunderclaps and they are indoors. Close all
windows, pull all curtains, and put on your dog's favourite music or the TV
so that the flashes and sounds have less of an impact. It's not a good idea
to make a fuss of your dog if he shows fear of fireworks, since this rewards
fear, and might convince him he is right to be afraid. You can either ignore
him and watch TV, or leave some of his favourite titbits in a bowl for him
to find, and play with his toys, again ignoring him. Then he has to decide
to forget the nasty bangs, and join in the fun.
Playbiting
See also Biting and Fighting
Puppies should always be taught bite inhibition from day one, it is so important
for their future. Do not tolerate any playbiting, mouthing, or snapping. Never,
ever, let anyone roughhouse your pup and encourage him to playbite. The result
may be a dog that has to be euthanased for biting. Some people suggest saying
'Ow' and ignoring the pup, or giving him something more acceptable to chew
than a person. Running will tend to encourage playbiting, because the pup
may see your ankles, or shoelaces as prey, so move hands and feet slowly.
Some pups have a manic, playbiting time at a particular time of the day, so
anticipate this, and give your pup something else to do, like a 'hunt the
titbit' game.
A method than has been extremely effective with many pups is simply blowing
a raspberry when they are having a relaxed chew of your hand. Make sure you
do this in a gentle, low key way. Have pup close while you are sitting, pup
starts to chew, you blow gentle raspberry in pup's face, pup stops, tries
again, you blow another raspberry, pup will usually lick you. Give long, calming
strokes to show you are friends with pup, and to reward him for licks (at
least better than bites!). Don't try blowing loud farty raspberries with a
manic pup, or you may just encourage more wild behaviour, do this when pup
is relatively calm and just having a reflective chew of your person.
Pups need to learn not to bite hard, but they can do this with other dogs,
rather than with people - se advice on playfights in 'Fighting'.
Poo Eating
It's not really understood why some dogs eat their own poo. The solution
is simple: clean it up before the dog has a chance to eat it. Take the dog
out to poo, and pick up the poo immediately with a poo bag, rather than leaving
the dog in the gardem with access to poo. Rabbit poo is considered a treat
by many dogs, and doesn't appear to harm them.
Possessiveness
Ideally, you should be able to take anything away from a dog without him
growling or snapping. Pups should get used to people going near their bowls
if they see this as a good thing, and you can add tasty titbits to their meals
while they are eating to convince them of this. Some people also take the
bowl away, get the pup to sit, and then return it with something nice added,
but this could confuse a pup and make him more possessive. Punishing a dog
for growling to retain an object is also likely to make him more possessive,
by confirming his view that you are a threat.
It's worth putting a lot of effort into teaching a 'drop' or 'let go' command.
You can do this first with titbits as a reward for dropping, and then by playing
ball games. First throw the ball, and make a big fuss of the dog every time
he brings it back. Have several balls when you start teaching this, as he
won't always bring it back. When he can do basic retrieves, hold his collar
gently and say 'stay' while you throw the ball. Then release him and say 'fetch'.
Tell him to 'drop' when he has brought the ball back. He may take a while
to get the idea, so mix this with simple retrieves, and use lots of praise.
If you want to be posh, you can also have the dog present you the ball in
a nice sit, but for the purposes of reducing possessiveness, it's fine if
he just gobs it out on the floor in front of you!
Another fun game to reduce possessiveness is a modified game of tug of war.
Don't pull hard on the tug, just make a lot of pretend fierce noises and move
your hand to get the dog to move around a lot. Then say 'drop', and tug has
to be dropped instantly. Then get the dog to sit and stay, throw the tug,
say 'fetch' to release the dog from his 'stay' and call the dog when he has
picked it up. His reward for retrieving and giving up the tug is having you
play and throw again.
'Leave' is another useful command. Put an object that is likely to interest
your dog on the ground, and let him approach it. Then call 'leave' and call
him, holding up something he finds more attractive, like his favourite titbit.
You may need to take an object from a dog which he wants to defend, because
it could hurt him. Try persuasion first, eg an alternative of smelly titbits,
and if that fails, use thick gloves, calming words, and move fast. Try to
be as non-threatening as possible, and give the dog a consolation prize of
stinky titbits to occupy him, once you have removed the forbidden object.
Pulling
See Walking On The Lead.
Recall
See also Wandering Off
Scenthounds, ex-racing greyhounds, lovesick dogs and young dogs tend to terrify
their owners by disappearing over the horizon. Some dogs will never be trustworthy,
but most dogs respond well to training, after which they can be trusted most
of the time.
Work on recall at home first, in different rooms in the house, calling from
different rooms, and rewarding with titbits. Then move out to the garden,
calling the dog in the garden, indoors from the garden, and out into the garden
from indoors. Try this in as many safe, enclosed areas as you can, but keep
him on a flexilead while
he is in unfenced areas, until he is coming back every time. You can try run-back
recalls in unfenced areas, using a long leash, getting him to sit and stay,
running backwards, then calling him to you. Find a very safe unfenced area
to let him off for the first time, ie no roads, joggers, irate elderly gents,
or screaming children nearby. The first time you let him off, let him have
a little mad run around, then, when he is coming towards you, call him, and
reward him.
Rewards can become more random after a while, like cuddles, a throw toy or
titbits. He never knows what you are going to do next! Don't run after him
if he won't come back - it's more effective to run away from him and shout
'bye bye'. If he is dancing around you and playing hard to get, sit down,
ignore him, and squeak. Take a squeaky toy out with you if you feel an idiot
squeaking yourself. Dogs like to investigate squeaks. You can also sit and
play excitedly with one of his toys and ignore him, or hide. Sitting may work
because dogs have little idea of perspective, ie they cannot tell the difference
between cows that are small and cows that are far away. Whatever the reason,
it works! Hiding often works with dogs that like to take their time, but also
like to keep you in view.
Do make a big fuss of him and praise him when he does come back after a delay,
even if you are fuming about the worry he has caused you. Then do some run-back
recalls to remind him that he is meant to obey you.
The less you trust your dog, the more you need to retain his attention on
walks with ball games and the like, but all dogs benefit from some attention
on walks, or they may regress. You can play games like hide and seek on walks
so that your dog pays more attention to you. Ball games are also useful -
throw the ball in the direction you are walking if the dog doesn't always
bring it back, but gets distracted. Teach ball-obsessive dogs that pocketing
the ball, saying 'all gone' and a show of empty hands means you are going
to stop throwing the ball, and no amount of hassling you will make you change
your mind. This even works with border collies. Don't trust a lovesick dog
to come back - just keep him on a flexilead. You can tell if he is lovesick,
he will be deaf, sniffing constantly, and whining to go out when he is home.
And don't ever let a bitch in season off the lead!
Separation Anxiety
See also Destructiveness
Separation anxiety is common among dogs that have been in kennels, or have
become overattached, even wanting to sit on your lap when you are in the bathroom
- 'velcro dogs'. Your dog will more easily cope with you being outside the
house if he can cope with being in a different room from you when you are
in the house. Try shutting the bathroom door now and then, or reading a book
with a babygate up, so the dog can see you but can't be by your side. Gradually
increase the amount of time that your dog spends alone. In acute cases, you
may have to start with very short periods like two minutes, and stand the
other side of the door. Don't open the door until the dog is quiet. Then try
going outside and just walking round the block, coming back after five minutes.
Dogs will tend to sleep when left alone if they have had a good run beforehand.
You can also leave them with chews and other toys, and have someone check
on them if you are going to be away for longer than the dog is used to. Make
preparations to leave in a discrete way, varying your routine, so the dog
doesn't pick up on cues and start to protest about your departure. Make goodbyes
low-key, with perhaps a 'stay' and 'be good dog', but no effusive 'poor little
thing I have to leave you'! It's also worth trying low-key hellos, to show
it's no big deal if you go away for a while. Ignore the first mad rush when
you come back, and wait until the dog is calm before calling him and giving
him a cuddle.
Small Dogs
Small dogs can often get away with quite dreadful behaviour, but it's worth
putting effort into training them. They won't bowl you over when they jump
up, but they can still frighten small children, get run over, and kicked if
they annoy passers by. Well-behaved small dogs attract coos of adoration from
children and old ladies. Small dogs like exercise, and regular walks help
improve their behaviour. They may be more fearful than larger dogs, but can
be socialised in the same way, with calm, friendly dogs as their first walking
companions. Small dogs are often more worried about the temperament of their
companions than their size, and may be happier with a calm Labrador than with
a mad terrier.
Stealing
Try to keep all forbidden objects that tempt him out of his reach, and distract
him if he looks like he is about to steal something, giving him a chew or
something else to occupy him. Telling him off may just make him think that
he can take things when you aren't around, but not when you are. Some people
suggest booby traps, which make a clatter if he tries to steal, like tin cans
on a string. If you try this, make sure there are no sharp objects in the
trap that could hurt him, and that it's not too frightening a trap, or he
may become fearful of the place where it happened and refuse to obey you if
you call him there.
Strays
The easiest way to catch a stray dog is to have him come to you, rather than
run after him. He may want to join you because he likes your dog, or you could
sit down, ignore him, and do something interesting like playing with a ball
or pretending to eat kibble, to arouse his curiosity and get him to come near.
Strays of course vary according how to obedient they are. You can just ask
some to 'sit' or 'lie down', and they will do so and let you approach. Others
are very wary and you may need to avoid all eye contact so as not to stress
them, and be very patient. Vets are a good place to take strays with no identification.
Vets are often not keen, but one reason vet bills are high is that they include
the cost of taking in strays! The RSPCA also helps. However, in places with
a stable dog population, the chances are good that you will meet a frantic
owner if you walk around with the stray on a lead for long enough.
Toilet Training
Bladder control is not fully developed until a dog is around eight-months-old,
and smaller dogs have less control than larger dogs, so make sure he is going
out enough. Never leave a pup for long in a crate, since he will end up having
to wee in his den. Always leave the door open and fence off a safe area with
a toilet for him, if you have to leave him for any length of time. Little
pups need to go out when they wake, when they have eaten, after playing, and
when they have sniffed the ground. Try gently carrying them out before they
wake up, so they don't have a chance to wee on the way out. Always stay outside
with the pup, or he will just want to come back in with you, and won't want
to wee. Put a weed-on newspaper just outside the back door, so the pup gets
the idea that outside is a good place to wee. Developing a routine and waking
pup at a set time also helps him to learn to control his bladder. Do make
sure your pup is happy to 'perform' when on the lead, to avoid problems later.
Dogs that are nearly housetrained but still poo at night may just need longer
walks last thing at night, until they poo. An emptied dog is less likely to
leave you a little present on the carpet overnight. Some dogs need to go out
for a short walk to perform, and don't manage to produce anything if you just
stand with them in the garden, though ball games in the garden can also help
trigger bowel motions!
Check with your vet if your dog is very slow at learning to perform outside,
or suddenly regresses. There may be a medical problem. Dogs can also regress
after disruptions like moving house, and may need to be retrained as though
they were pups. Spayed bitches may suffer from incontinence, which can usually
be treated. Washable floors and newspapers help with cleaning up after old
friends who develop incontinence for medical reasons. There are special nappies
for dogs, or you can use women's stick-on hygiene products, and make a Velcro-fastened
belly band and nappy holder. Cleaners with deodorants tend to get rid of the
smell better than vinegar.
Vet Phobias
First, find yourself a good vet - preferably at a practice with several good
vets, where you know who the dog will see, and that they get on with him.
Most vets are good with dogs, but there are one or two who aren't. Some practices
have locums, which means you can't tell who will see your dog. These practices
are best avoided. You can find out from training classes and dog walking circles
which vets are best at developing rapport with dogs. You want a confident
vet who takes the time to say hello to your dog, carries out procedures calmly
and efficiently, and sees nothing extraordinary in giving your dog a titbit
afterwards (providing your dog can be trusted not to bite him!).
All painful procedures should be carried out with some sort of anaesthetic.
There are some vets who think that broken and hanging claws, painful in themselves,
can simply be yanked off with no anaesthetic. That is a dumb move if they
want their canine clients to return willingly.
Try changing your vet if your dog has developed vet phobia from treatment
at one particular place and is reluctant to go into the examination room there.
The smells at the new vets may be similar, but it's a different location with
no fear attached to it. Don't make a big fuss of the dog, just be calm and
matter of fact. A titbit from a nice receptionist or vet nurse is usually
welcome. You might also want to wait outside and play a little game of catch
ball on the lead until your turn is called, if there's space, your dog is
likely to be stressed in the waiting room with other dogs, and the receptionist
doesn't mind.
Be kind to your vet, and muzzle your dog if he has ever bitten a human, unless
the vet is aware of the risk and is dog-savvy enough to size up your dog and
treat him without a muzzle. Vets often become dog-phobic because owners are
less than honest about whether their dogs might bite. You can put titbits
in the muzzle, and get your dog to put his nose in it voluntarily, and then
put it on without doing it up, followed by a reward. Then do it up, leave
it on for a short while, and take it off again, followed by a reward. Muzzles
are less confrontational if put on from behind, with your head and the dog's
aligned, but if your dog trusts you and associates muzzles with treats, this
is not necessary. Never, ever, let anyone muzzle your dog unless they have
excellent dog handling skills, because if the dog gets away with threatening
them and they don't manage to muzzle him, he is likely to try using threats
again, which will make veterinary treatment very difficult!
Walking On The Lead
Practice walking nicely should start from puppyhood, and you need to do the
exercises taught in training class all the time, not just for the hour or
so a week you are in class! If your dog pulls, for example, stop dead, call
him, and do a run-back recall, or simply call him and walk in the opposite
direction. Keep his attention by calling him and doing unexpected things.
This is far more effective than using choke chains. If you have to use any
special equipment, make sure it is secure, ie won't come off in traffic, and
won't damage the dog. Harnesses can be useful for inveterate pullers, whereas
dogs often continue to pull with choke chains, and can damage their windpipes.
Wandering Off
Dogs are more likely to wander off if they don't have regular walks or games
and are bored, or are seeking a mate. It's best not to leave your dog unattended
in the garden unless you are very, very sure that it is secure. The most common
way for dogs to escape is when they are left alone in a garden. Get a friendly
builder to help dog-proof your garden if you don't have the handyman skills
yourself. It's a good investment since it can last the lifetimes of more than
one dog. Roaming dogs can cause traffic accidents as well as getting killed.
Chastising the dog on his return won't help! Praise him for coming back, and
spend a bit more time training him.
Walking your dog can be fun. You meet all sorts of people and catch up on
all the local gossip. Dogwalkers aren't usually too bothered about what you
wear, so long as your dog is friendly with theirs. Walkers belong to a special
club, people prepared to go out in all weathers to make sure their dogs stay
happy and fit. It keeps us fit too. You see wildlife, sunrises, sunsets, the
moon and the stars. Whatever the pressures of work or life in general, dogwalking
has a wonderful soothing effect, and a late-night walk means you and the dog
can sleep well afterwards.
Acknowledgements:
Thanks to Helle Haugenes for her comments on a draft of this article. Thanks
also to Berit Aherne, Janet Boss, Amy Dahl, Sally Hennessey, Nancy Holmes
and Lynn Kosmakos, for informative discussions on dog training and behaviour.
The views and solutions set out here do not necessarily reflect their views,
but their insights have been valuable.
References:
The most useful books to read depend on whether you have an urgent problem,
or just want to know more about dog training and behaviour, and how to prevent
problems. Some problems can't be solved by books alone, and you will need
professional help from someone who can see you and the dog for more serious
problems.
See Books
on Animals for reviews of these and other dog training books
 Top
of page
See also:
 Dogs: Choosing a Dog
Dogs: You and Your Dog
Dogs: Basic Training
Dogs: Dogs and Diet
Reviews of specialist books on behaviour and training
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